Great Bears of Bute Adventure – A Full Day of Beauty, Wonder and Learning

Yesterday was one for the books! (My personal history books, I mean 🙂 ) My sister and Donna and her husband had arrived in Campbell River, BC the day before in order to be on time for our early morning Homalco Tour’s Great Bears of Bute adventure. (You might remember we were in Campbell River earlier this year…so of course part of the agenda for THIS trip was to revisit our favourite Indigenous woman-led businesses there and to stock up, which we happily did!)

On the dock at 7 am, a bit bleary-eyed and raring ready for adventure! L – R: my sister, me, Donna and Richard.

We eagerly boarded the beautiful Klohoy (Homalco word for chum salmon), a comfortable aluminum boat with 2 seats per person on the tour (1 in the indoor heated cabin with onboard loo, 1 on the viewing deck). After a brief safety lesson (including being instructed to wear our masks at all times), we were off on the 2 hour journey to Bute Inlet!

Words and pictures cannot begin to describe the beautiful views we encountered at every step of the day’s adventures.

We weren’t too far into the trip to the mainland when Captain Flavian noticed whale blow. Which meant of course we had to stop to investigate.

Humpback whale blow – photo by Donna
Not the greatest photo of 2 humpback whales. For better shots of these magnificent mammals, please go to an older post, here.

After enjoying the whales for about 15 minutes, we continued on to an inlet where Captain Flavian had grown up, to learn some of the more recent (last 200 years) history of the Homalco people. Our guide Holly also tried to teach us some words in the Homalco language.

From Donna’s notes, here are the English translations from top to bottom: 1. The language of our people (4 tribes); 2. Grizzly Bear; 3. Chum salmon (name of our boat); 4. Whale; 5. Seal; 6. Sea Lion; 7. Eagle; 8. Raven
Holly and Flavian.

Holly told us to notice that the waters of the inlet were the most beautiful colour, due to glacial sediment from the rivers that feed it. And that the boat’s colour scheme had come from the colour of the water. See for yourself!

Orford Bay, Bute Inlet
A pretty good match, don’t you think?
Orford Bay welcome sign
Well, actually I am kinda hoping there are lots of bears in the area 🙂

After docking, we made our way to the cultural centre to get a safety briefing from our bear guides: JJ and Ian. Basic takeaway: Listen to your guides! When they say “back on the bus”, this means NOW, not 2 more photos first! On the bus, JJ also regaled us with stories involving bear spray…er…misadventures from his childhood, and cultural stories of what the Homalco learned from observing grizzly bears.

At our first stop, a bear ambled into view even before we were all able to get off the bus. And there were bears at every stop thereafter. Holly mentioned she has yet to be “skunked” on any bear adventures she has hosted. Please check out my Instagram for the many videos I posted of this adventure!

Of course the bears were there for one thing only: to fatten up on the many chum salmon in the stream! Unfortunately the fish – although plentiful and easy to spot – were very hard to photograph through the running water.

Where there are bears, there are also many birds (including bald eagles – no good photos to share, unfortunately) – also there for the salmon…both for the eggs in the river and to clean up the fish who had already died on their journey to spawn.

Everybody’s gotta eat!
My sister and I are beaming, under our masks. Taken while visiting one of two specially constructed bear viewing platforms.
Donna, my sister and I in front of the bear sign. We asked and were granted permission from our guides to move to the sign for a photo. The Homalco word for grizzly bear is pronounced “howgas”. (I hope I am not butchering the language too badly.)

After 3 hours of being awestruck in the presence of the magnificent grizzlies, we were as hungry as the bears themselves.

Eating our delicious boxed lunches in the world’s most beautiful outdoor “restaurant”.

Once back on the boat for the journey back to Campbell River, even more wildlife was spotted.

Harbour seals sunning on a log in Orford Bay.
Orca! My first sighting!!!! This male is T11A, and you can read more about him and wild transient orcas here.
Steller sea lions having a bit of a bro fest.
Adult males can weigh up to 2500 pounds.
The stunning views just never stopped on this trip.

After over 8 hours on the water and the mainland of British Columbia, it was time to head back to the dock in Campbell River, and from there back to home in Nanaimo.

Today I received the following (excerpted, from the email) from Homalco Tours:

Thank you for joining us on a recent tour from Campbell River. We sincerely hope that you enjoyed yourself!

By travelling with us, you are contributing to the growth and preservation of Homalco First Nation culture, Indigenous employment, and to the restoration of wild salmon populations in Bute Inlet. “I:mote” means “it is good” and is the word for gratitude in the Homalco language. We extend that gratitude to you.

I don’t think there is a big enough word for me to express my gratitude to the Homalco people for providing me the opportunity to partake of this adventure on their land. IT IS and WAS GOOD.

Rock on,

The WB

53 thoughts on “Great Bears of Bute Adventure – A Full Day of Beauty, Wonder and Learning

  1. Wow! for the mountain vistas.
    Wow! for the wildlife. ORCA!!!! I had no idea that fin was so HUGE!
    Wow! for an amazing time shared with family and friends.

    You are definitely right – this is an adventure I would love. btw – I love your sister’s mask. It’s a beauty.

  2. Not sure I could bear being around all those bears, and I wouldn’t have to be told twice to get back on the bus. But it must have been pretty amazing to see so many grizzlies on one trip.

    1. TG, I would have been happy with only 1 bear…heck, I would have been happy just to be in such wonderful scenery and see all the salmon hanging around in the river. At one point, our bus was hindered on its journey by a huge male meandering down the road in front of us. Thankfully he looked back and realized the bus was bigger than him, and skedaddled. Holly said he was probably after the female fishing in the river and she would be glad we thwarted his plans 🤣. Thanks 💕

    1. This company (Homalco Wildlife Tours) put a lot of thought into the boat they had built, which I appreciated. 12 people max per tour…1 indoor and 1 outdoor seat per person. And a heated cabin with washroom to extend the season and for guest comfort. We saw other tour groups in open Zodiac boats and were happy we were not them. Thanks, Kate 💕

  3. This looks like a dream day for me too! Oh how I would be enthralled with the whales, the bears, the water wildlife!
    So do the Homalco people still reside there? I suppose I could google it, but I’m assuming they are similar to our Native Americans where they are still living, working and keeping the traditions alive together?

    1. No one is living anymore where our captain was raised, but Flavian said that some of his people still lived across the inlet. Flavian is now living in Campbell River, on the reserve there. The Homalco First Nation is actively working their traditional lands in terms of restocking the rivers with chum salmon and preserving their culture and heritage through education and tourism. What a great gift for all peoples this is! Thanks, Suz 💕

    1. 🤣 Yes! Bro fest indeed. Our guide explained that this colony was all males and that the females were still at the nursery with the young. Holly said sea lions are naturally gregarious and choose to be together in large groups. Then she wondered aloud why there was so much conflict going on, since the males apparently WANT to be together. Another guest then quipped “Do you spend much time in bars?” 🤣🤣🤣 Thanks, Marty 💕

  4. Hi Deb! From the looks of your amazing photos you planned this brilliantly because you got to see just what you wanted–BEARS! How cool that there were so many and that the other sea life was just a bonus. These tour providers appear to be the best for sure and if/when Thom and I return it will be high on the list. ~Kathy

  5. We will definitely have to take that tour. It looks amazing. My husband and I were just in Uclelet, so it will be a couple of years before we make it back to the Island and I really want to take this tour. Thanks for sharing.

  6. hilarymb

    Hi Deb – it’s an amazing experience isn’t it … I went south from Cowichan Bay … didn’t see bears, but saw whales, seals, sea lions and plenty of birds, especially murres … as well as on Spieden Island fallow deer from Europe, Moufflon sheep from Corsica, Sika deer from Asia (Japan) remain after it was set up for sport hunting … now it is unoccupied, but the animals thrive and remain … until (I guess) inbreeding occurs. Spieden Island – James Jannard who owns Spieden … he started and owned Red Digital Camera – forty of which were used to film The Hobbit. I wrote about it two years ago 14th Oct … ‘Whale Trip out into the Salish Sea’ … (I see Donna commented on the post – must have just met in blogland!) …

    But I’d love to see the Discovery Channel and Bute Inlet … what an amazing trip you all had – and it must be so much fun for you that your sister was with you … delightful post – such fun to see and to know about. Thanks – cheers Hilary

    1. Hi Hilary, it sounds like you had a wonderful experience on one of these trips as well. Last fall Donna and Richard and I almost went on a similar trip from Cowichan Bay, but it was cancelled at the last moment and we ended up departing from Campbell River instead. I’d still like to do the Cowichan one someday. A day (or afternoon) on the water is always a good thing, isn’t it? Thanks 💕

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